Though beloved by Sufis and sultans, Üsküdar was not spared the ground-shaking reforms of the 19th and 20th centuries. In the second half of our history, we look at how Istanbul’s ‘holy land’ has fared in its two-century tryst with modernity.
- Even in antiquity, all roads east began in Üsküdar. In a sense, they still do. So long as its delicate balance is not severed, Üsküdar will remain to Istanbul—the confident, pious, and prosperous focal point of the urban Anatolian experience—what Turkey is to the world: proof that Islam, capitalism, and modernity, with a dash of democratic salt, is still a dish worth serving.